As time goes by…

At the current stage of life, each year seems to progress faster than the previous one. It was such a blessing when a serious car accident in January ended with the vehicle completely written off while yours truly as driver (and the only one inside) totally unhurt.

The wine market is not exactly prospering. The correction in the last 18 months is not necessarily bad as things are now more affordable. The hope is that producers and merchants will be realistic in setting En Primeur prices come next April/May. The local restaurant scene is challenging for operators, with less business entertainment and competition across the border. But it takes more than low cost to entice people to enter any eatery. It goes without saying that the food has to be good. We must also be innovative and improve our service attitude, something not always apparent in the past.

The Taipo fire in November is a catastrophe by any measure. Our utmost sympathy to the residents and those related to them. It is heartening though to see so many in the community contributing to help. While the magnitude of the disaster as a whole is one of the biggest of its kind, it is worth noting that a fire destroying a single house would result in the same suffering at the level of an individual. The hope is that we would not overlook any need for help from victims facing hardship from smaller scale incidents.

Going back to the subject of our favourite beverage…Campania in South Italy, a region of picturesque natural scenery and heritage, is often a bit of an unknown for us in Hong Kong in terms of its wines. To be fair, there was a time when Campanian wine producers went too far in pushing the ripeness of grapes and the use of oak as an effort to tame the aggressive tannins of some of their indigenous grape varietals. This treatment often resulted in unbalanced wines lacking individual characters. The big 1980 Irpinia earthquake that destroyed a lot of the region resulting in almost 2,500 deaths and 250,000 homeless also severely impeded the local wine industry. With that as the backdrop, we are pleased to see an evolution since the 1990’s. A small group of owners, businessmen and oenologists worked to re-introduce nearly forgotten varietals, focusing on terrior with a fixation on quality. As this critical mass continues to grow, there is every reason to be excited about the prospect of Campanian wines. Indeed many are already ticking the boxes in terms of quality, aging potential and exceptional value. On that note, you will see in our listing below quite a few wines representing some of the best from the region. We hope you will find them interesting.

Of course we are constantly adding things to our list. See if any of them might appeal to you:

NV Dehours Oeil de Perdrix Extra Brut Rose (VN95 at HK$440/bottle) – Rich and yet light on its feet with kirsch, rose petals, flowers, white pepper and crushed rocks some of its elements that grace this exquisite, ethereal Champagne. What an absolute joy at such great value!!!

2020 Bouchard Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres (WA93-95 at HK$450/half) – This Burgundy white wafts from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp Anjou pear, hazelnuts, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, terrific concentration, bright acids and a long, saline finish.

2022 Quintodecimo Greco di Tufo Gialo d'Arles (WA95 at HK$400/bottle) – This Campanian gem out of the Greco grape varietal will appeal to those who gravitate toward white wines that express themselves with precision, volume and texture. There are the aromas of tart citrus fruit, green papaya, crushed oyster shell, and a taste of salty elements, hints of cinnamon creaminess that comes from partial oak aging.

2012 Larcis Ducasse (RP95 at HK$530/bottle) – Some recent vintages from this Bordeaux estate have been legendary efforts, especially 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2010. And the 2012 is right in the competition, with an inky, opaque, bluish/purple colour, gorgeously sweet, rich nose of black raspberries, black cherries and currants, and licorice. The wine hits the palate with a full-bodied, thunderous effect. Its texture, gorgeous purity, richness and length make it one of the great stars of the vintage.

2010 Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo (WA96 at HK$400/bottle) – The texture of this red from Basilicata (Italy) is compact and focused with a very precise bouquet that offers good dark fruit, spice and dusty volcanic tones of ash, mineral and smoke. The wine is distinctive and profoundly beautiful and will be liked by those who are predisposed to the authentic and sometimes rustic expressions that Aglianico from the blackened slopes of the Vulture volcano.

2015 Montevetrano (JS98 at HK$380/bottle) – A Campanian red that hits out with beautiful intensity and richness that feels seamless and balanced. From vines planted on rocky soils, it is a 50/30/20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico and Merlot that delivers impressive characteristics that can be traced to each one of those grapes. You get the structure and the cherry-infused softness of the two French grapes with the dark fruit and the flinty crushed stone and spice of the native Aglianico grape. 

2015 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro (WA95 at HK$400/bottle) – A 80/20 blend of Aglianico and Piedirosso , this Campanian red has a nose of green spice and bitter coffee that recall the Cabernet family. Beyond those more pointedly aromatic components, the bouquet offers spice, sweet tobacco, blackberry fruit and dried cherry. The vines are located at 450 meters above sea level in the volcanic soils of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano. This was a hot vintage that offers exuberant and opulent fruit, followed by structure and soft tannins

2015 Feudi di San Gregorio Pàtrimo (WA97 at HK$520/bottle) – Our final offer of Campania is this proud protagonist of Vino Italiano. And the Merlot based 2015 Pàtrimo is one of the finest editions ever produced, based on the extreme richness, complexity and finesse that unwrapping before your eyes and taste buds. This is a big wine with aromas of blackberry, spice and dark leather delivered with exuberance and opulence. The mouthfeel is rich and the finish everlasting. A must have in your cellar.

2016 Domino del Aguila Reserva (WA97 at HK$580/bottle) – This amazing Ribera del Duero (Spain) is from a cooler year and took seven months to complete fermentation, and the élevage in barrel lasted some 29 months. It has an incredible nose, violets and something musky, intriguing, complex and nuanced, mysterious and difficult to define, with some notes reminiscent of soy sauce. The palate is seamless and with terrific balance, a silky texture and very fine but chalky tannins.

2017 Torbreck The Factor (WA95 at HK$680/bottle) – By a top South Australian producer, the 2017 The Factor boasts hickory-like smoky aromas, plus plum and blackberry fruit. It's full-bodied and firmly built, finishing with hints of chocolate, licorice and dusty tannins.

Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.  Thank you for reading. We wish you a Merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year!!!