Donum and Art

There were quite a few things happening last month. Some of you might know that Donum has established a presence in Galaxy Macau with wines featured in the wine lists of various restaurants of the group since last year. On March/13, a Donum wine dinner was held at their Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant and well attended by food/wine aficionados as well as representatives from the media. On March/14, Vinopolis and the HK Country Club jointly organized a Donum Master Class at the Club’s cellar where five cuvees from the 2023 vintage were featured. The event was fully booked within days of its announcement, with a long waiting list that the Club could not entertain. Owner Allan Warburg led the Donum delegation, with CEO Angelica de Vere-Mabray and VP Winegrowing Tony Chapman flying in from the US to join both events. Other than tasting Donum wines, participants were impressed with Donum’s philosophy in re-generative farming and how that would positively impact the environment and transpire into the quality of our wines.

And then there was Art Basel that took place in the third week of March. Donum Owners Mei and Allan Warburg are both passionate art lovers and collectors. They hosted a reception at the Upper House with Donum wines served and a new book on the art collection at the Donum Estate distributed. The highlight was a panel discussion titled “Art as Destination: Defining the Cultural Experience” moderated by Philip Tinari, Deputy Director and Head of Art at Tai Kwun, joint by artist Zhan Wang and art advisors/curators Clare Lilley and Andras Szanto. When you are going to a gallery, a museum or any art exhibition, it is always a process of discovery. But as Clare Lilley pointed out, the way Donum displays its collection of sixty sculptures across the vineyard makes the visit more of an art journey. Not knowing what might be ahead, one would suddenly see a gigantic piece showing up around the corner, behind trees or after climbing a knoll. While completely in awe of the art’s presence and aesthetics, one also senses how each piece is existing harmoniously with the setting. And because it takes a bit of an effort to walk in open air, with the sun, the breeze and the smell of nature, the overall experience is more satisfying, even gratifying.

And on that note, we want to recommend two of the latest releases from Donum. The Thomas Ferguson Vineyard (TFV) was first planted in 1974 by its namesake. The property officially became part of the Donum portfolio in 2016. Following a complete vineyard redevelopment, the first harvest was in 2021. TFV stands out for its rocky terrain, scattered with large cobblestones, and its lighter-coloured, silica-rich soils. These conditions make it one of the most unique sites in Carneros for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Apart from Donum, there are other recent additions which we think you might like:

2023 Donum Thomas Ferguson Vineyard Chardonnay (JS96 at HK$620/bottle) - Pale golden in colour, the 2023 TFV Chardonnay opens with a flinty character that defines this vineyard, followed by aromas of lemon, honey crisp apple and a hint of honey. The palate is mineral-driven, with saline notes layered with kiwi, kumquat and apple. Bright, focused and persistent, this wine finishes with vibrancy and length.

2023 Donum Thomas Ferguson Vineyard Pinot Noir (JS97 at HK$750/bottle) – The wine is medium ruby in colour, with incredible saturation, and opens on the nose with a burst of graphite, followed by aromas of blackberry and plum. The palate is red-fruit driven, featuring tart cherry, raspberry, red plum, lingonberry and even a hint of melon. Focused and supported by fully ripe tannins, the mouthfeel is balanced and harmonious.   

2023 Kumeu River Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay (JS97 at HK$430/bottle) – The flagship white from our favourite New Zealand producer, it is complete with all flavour points and spice characteristics present and accounted for. 2023 had plenty of rainfall but the wine still feels fresh, vibrant and focused. There are notes of shaved fennel, white pepper, almond meal and a decidedly white spectrum of flavour and spice. Stylistically, this cuvee is typically complex, quite powerful and sometimes tropical. In this wet year, the wine is retrained and decidedly more composed—while some may view this as being "not the usual Maté's style," we think it a very good iteration of this vineyard.   

2005 La Gomerie (RP95 at HK$680/bottle) – This sensational red from one of the top Bordeaux vintage is a sexy, dense plum/purple-tinged effort. Made of 100% Merlot, it exhibits a sumptuous bouquet of white chocolate, roasted coffee, blackberries, black cherries, graphite, and toasty oak. This is a modern-styled, decadently rich St.-Emilion, and yet possesses a more classic framework than usual.  

2016 Leoville Poyferre (WA97+ at HK$760/bottle) – From another Bordeaux great vintage, the 2016 Leoville Poyferre hits the ground running with intense cassis, violets, dark chocolate, menthol and fragrant earth notions complemented by nuances of cigar box and smoked meats. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is charged with energetic, super intense black fruit and floral layers, beautifully supported with super firm, ripe, grainy tannins and seamless freshness. This is a wine you feel alive in the mouth, culminating in an epically long finish that will leave your palate tingling.    

2016 Domaine Faiveley Clos des Cortons Grand Cru (WA95 at HK$1,300/bottle) – Many would argue this being the most representative among all cuvees by this well known Burgundy domaine. The wine reveals an attractive bouquet of ripe red berry fruit, orange rind, wood smoke, espresso roast and dark chocolate that's framed by a deft touch of classy new oak. On the palate, it is full-bodied, satiny and lavish, with a deep and layered core, excellent concentration, vibrant acids and a long, beautifully defined finish. This is one of the finest rendition of the Clos des Cortons Faiveley has ever produced.

2016 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia (WA95 at HK$650/bottle) – Spotting a dark ruby colour, there is a lot of crisp fruit, sour cherry and cranberry in this tonic, lively Brunello. Following the brightness of the wine's appearance and the nice bouquet, you get a very incisive and direct and vertical delivery that is pushed by a touch of volatility. This wine is very open and expressive as it lays itself all out for you to enjoy.

2020 Le Macchiole Messorio (WA96 at HK$1,350/bottle) – Our favourite among all Super Tuscans because it is good and the price still reasonable. Made with Merlot, the 2020 Messorio is a profound and richly textured wine, with ripe fruit, dark cherry, oak spice, toast converge and balanced intensity to generously express the best from Tuscany. Despite this being a hot vintage with over-ripeness being the norm, Messorio navigates the challenging growing season with flying colours.

2020 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch Ried Schwemmer (WA95 at HK$580/bottle) – Every now and then we want to introduce wines that are not that mainstream, at least not in Hong Kong, as a way of exploration by our wine friends. Blaufrankisch is a red grape varietal grown mostly in Central Europe. This Austrian red offers a nose that is deep, very intense and complex, with darker, super concentrated fruit aromas intermingled with blood orange notes and hints of iron and iodine that represent the complexity of vines planted during the 1930s and 1970s. Silky, round and very elegant on the palate, this wine is intense, saline and elegant, perfectly balanced but also tensioned, with a pure, saline finish that reveals very fine tannins and mineral, refreshing acidity.

Thank you for reading. Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.