“Catch me if you can”
Updated: Aug 15
Some of you may remember this 2002 Steven Spielberg movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Hanks, one which was based on the story of Frank Abagnale Jr. who claimed that in the 1960’s he successfully performed cons worth millions of dollars. The world of wine is not lacking its share of felonies either. With premium wine prices escalating, the incentive to cheat is obvious. Added that the purchaser may not even know he/she has bought fake wines because expensive bottles are often kept for years before being uncorked on special occasions or they would be given away as presents, with the receiver not knowledgeable about wine or too polite not to complain, selling fake wines really can result in a windfall without being caught, not right away in any case.
A fellow wine merchant recently shared the report of the Taiwanese billionaire Wood Chen suspiciously linked to a US$30M+ scandal as some of the recipients of his wines through auction houses and wine merchants are claimed to be fake. Chen defended the integrity of his cellar and denied any wrongdoing. So far, the police are not involved. Coincidentally, Chen’s brother is also a renowned wine collector and has made available 25,000 bottles of premium wines on sale through Sotheby’s with the first tranche fetching close to US$ 17M in an auction staged in Hong Kong last November. With events unfolding, it remains to be seen whether the planned auctions in September (New York) and November (Hong Kong again) this year will take place as scheduled.
In terms of past wine scandals, the two biggest and most interesting episodes may be:
In the 1980’s the German Hardy Rodenstock would build his reputation as a wine connoisseur by throwing lavish tasting parties (with James Tien and Henry Tang among his guests), the extreme of which included a Ch. d’Yquem vertical of 125 vintages, the oldest dating back to 1784. He then offered some of his collection for sale, including what were called the “Jefferson bottles”, purported to be wines once owned by Thomas Jefferson, one of the founding fathers of the US and the country’s third president. Those who bought included Christopher Forbes and Bill Koch, among others. Rodenstock was eventually brought to court which found him knowingly offered “adulterated wine” for sale.
In the early 2000’s, the Los Angeles based Indonesian Rudy Kurniawan would portray himself as a wine aristocrat with substantial wealth by wearing expensive designer clothes, driving a Lamborghini and inviting beautiful people to wine parties in his mansion. He also would offer his wine collection for sale. Again, among many, Bill Koch was one who apparently bought over 200 bottles by paying US$2.1M. When there were rumours that the wines were fakes, the FBI raid Kurniawan’s home in 2012 and turned up hundreds of bottles, cork, labels and wine filling equipment. At his sentencing, the court ordered Kurniawan to pay US$28.4M to seven victims and to forfeit US$20M in property as penalty on top of a 10-year prison sentence.
Should we then not buy very old wines? There is always the risk. Buying from reputable and long established merchants would help. Always ask for confirmation of provenance. Best will be wines kept by the estate all along and only released recently.
Now some of our recent additions that you may find interesting, with a bias to whites as we are into the real heat of summer:
2014 Dehours Millesime (VN 95 at HK$600/bottle) – A blend of the Meunier and Pinot Noir grape varietals in 70/30 proportion, this good-valued champagne is rich, deep and expansive as it soars out of the glass with magnificent concentration and layers of flavour that build into a nuanced, palate staining finish.
2020 Guillemot-Michel Vire-Clesse Retour a la Terre (JS98 at HK$380/bottle) – Those who missed the good valued Burgundy whites by this estate last time may want to consider its sibling from another plot of land. Vinified in clay amphora, this wine exhibits notes of honey, fresh baked bread, orange blossom and waxy citrus fruits. Medium to full-bodied, it has a good structure framed by acidity and notes of chalk.
2020 Guigal Condrieu la Doriane (VN95 at HK$630/bottle) – Our favourite Rhone white with terrific concentration, complexity and freshness, it unfurls with delicious apricot, white peach, melon, orange blossom, vanilla and brioche. Outstanding!!!
2015 Jermann Where Dreams Have No End (JS96 at HK$550/bottle) – We are re-stocking this seriously good white out of mostly Chardonnay from Friuli (NE Italy), a wine with a beautiful kaleidoscope of cooked apples, spiced pear and butterscotch undertones. Gorgeous and flavourful, it is one of the best dreams in years.
2019 Liquid Farm Golden Slope Chardonnay (WA95 at HK$430/bottle) – Californian white that is shimmery and expressive, with scents of white peaches, honey and a stoney undertone. The medium-bodied palate combines a satiny texture with tangy acidity and energetic citrusy character as it finishes with expansive savoury layers. Hard to beat value too…
2022 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay (JS95 at HK$230/bottle) – Entry point offering by our favourite New Zealand producer, this white is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot, brine and a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it. Not the most complex but all things considered, it is an exciting Chardonnay.
2012 Gazin (RP95 at HK$600/bottle) – The fact that some years ago the iconic Petrus bought part of the Gazin vineyard is testimony of its excellent terroir. This outstanding 2012 Pomerol has a complex, quite mercurial bouquet of raspberry, strawberry, marmalade and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity, beautifully balanced with harmony. A seriously good wine indeed…
2019 Petrolo Galatrona (WA97 at HK$650/bottle) – This remains one of our ideal Italian Merlots as many of the so called Super Tuscans have become unrealistically pricy. The wine is soft, luscious and spreading evenly over the palate with elegance and sweeping intensity. The bouquet shows dark fruit, black cherry and sweet prune, all woven into pretty layers of spice, leather and perfumed tobacco.
2003 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (RP95 at HK$780/bottle) – This good Napa red is on its plateau of maturity. Boasting a sweet bouquet of black currants, crème de cassis, chocolate cake, lavender, tobacco leaf and subtle barbecue scents, it is rich, dense and multi-dimensional, offering great drinking pleasure now.
2017 Yalumba Vigil (JS96 at HK$300/bottle) – From a reputable South Australian winery, this is a Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz blend with aromas of blackberry, black currant, stone and attractive spicy notes. The palate holds a richly concentrated core of black fruits in deeply powerful tannins and seamlessly integrated oaks. A real star of the vintage…
Thank you for reading. Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.
Comments