The Art of Travelling

Travelling has become such a part of our lives, be it for business or for vacation. Unless you are on a cruise ship, you will have to stay in some form of land accommodation. There are those brand names belonging to big hotel chains (think Hyatt, Marriott, Hilton, The Four Seasons etc.) which, depending on the “star rating” of each, offer facilities such as choices of multiple restaurants, function rooms, business centre, gym, swimming pool to a full-fledged spa. They are typically run efficiently with well-established service standards. Never overlook the smaller independent hotels though as they can be very special and give a  very elevated experience.

Small and family-operated hotels often offer unique charm and intimate hospitality. Their architecture may have a context of history. The deco and furniture reflect the taste of the owner. There may not be a full range of every amenity. Instead of seeing that an inconvenience, one could accept those as part of the charm, an opportunity for a slight disconnect that allows for immersing oneself in a slower, relaxed and authentic way of travelling. On that note, yours truly would share a few establishments in that context:

Tawaraya Ryokan of Kyoto – Run by the same family for more than 300 years, many Japanese regard this as one they must stay at least once during their lifetime. Distinguished guests over the years include royals from Europe and celebrities such as Leonard Bernstein, Alfred Hitchcock, Steven Speilberg and many others. Every room comes with its private little garden. When all the good hotels are boosting their comprehensive facilities, this wooden inn has only a small library to offer. There is no restaurant. They will ask what you wish to eat while also recommending the seasonal specialties and then serve all meals to your room. The experience is like going back the passage of time.

Dukes of London – The quintessential Englishness that a hotel can offer, everything meticulous, elegant and understated, including its location at a small cul-de-sac behind a side street. Within a few minutes’ walk though, you will have all that a man ever needs…Jermyn Street and St. James’s for attire, Fortnum & Mason for groceries, the legendary Wilton’s seafood restaurant, The Royal Academy of Arts to enrich one’s aesthetic capacity and Hatchards for books. For those who care for ladies’ fashion and jewelry, Bond Street is just a stone throw away.

Villa d’Este of Cernobbio – Ten minutes (by car) outside the city Como, this former 16th Century residence of European aristocrats has welcomed guests with gracious hospitality since 1873. Its standard of service, amenities and cuisine are all exceptional. You can watch the Lake Como view all day. If that’s not enough to win your heart, a morning walk in the magnificent garden which is part of hotel property will surely leave you an unforgettable experience.

Hotel Santa Caterina of Amalfi – In south Italy along the coast, this elegant hotel cascades along a breathtaking summit and down to the water in a series of intimate terraces shaded by bougainvillea and lemon groves. The panoramic vistas make every room individually stunning. The hand-painted tiles take the already authentic architecture to another level. For those who want to explore the neighbourhood, many small, charming towns and villages can be reached by bicycle or a short boat ride.

The Lowell Hotel of New York – This is one of New York’s truly exceptional lodgings. If you don’t mind the price, stay there and forget any place else. It’s one block from Central Park and literally just steps from the nicest stores on Madison Avenue. Pass through its doors, you enter into a sophisticated setting and feel like immediately leaving the city hustle and bustle behind. All furnishings are exquisite antiques. Employees are attentive but proud. They anticipate your needs. It is in the U.S. but you feel that this is Edwardian elegance at the most refined.

Enough on the subject and let’s turn to wines. Among our recent additions, there are a few from South Africa, a place with all the geologic and climatic attributes to be a great wine region. The country was sanctioned for some 40 years since the late 1940’s. Nobody bought their wines (nor other products) and therefore nobody was investing. Everything went downhill in terms of quality. When apartheid ended in the early 1990’s, relationship with the world normalized and new investment went in. The wine industry has since had a great revival and any wine enthusiast should pay attention to the good and often great value stuff they are making. Anyway, see if you like what we are listing below.  

2020 Domaine William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent (WA95 at HK$500/bottle) – One of the finest white in the portfolio this year, it unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, beeswax, crisp white peach, white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is ample and seamless, with terrific tensioning intensity in a tightly wound format. Warmly recommended, though patience will be required. 

2019 Domaine Guffens-Heynen Macon Pierreclos Premier Jus de Chavigne (WA95 at HK$1,200/bottle) – This Burgundy white s performing superbly in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, citrus zest, warm toast and pear. Medium to full-bodied, immensely concentrated and complete, it's seamless and penetrating, underpinned by a tangy spine of acidity and concluding with a long, saline finish.

2012 Gazin (RP95 at HK$580/bottle) – A Pomerol Bordeaux that has a complex, quite mercurial bouquet that seems quite confit in style as it offers raspberry coulis, wild strawberry, marmalade and minerals. You could nose it all day! The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity, beautifully balanced with harmony. It glides across the mouth, so much so that it almost belies the structure underneath. This is a seriously good top-drawer red with ambitions. 

2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion (WA96+ at HK$1,000/bottle) – This Bordeaux Estate is gaining prominence every day. The deep garnet-purple wine is out of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc almost in 1:1:1 proportion. It needs a little coaxing before bursting from the glass with vibrant scents blackberry preserves, redcurrant jelly, mulberries and Black Forest cake, leading to an undercurrent of pencil lead, black truffles, cast-iron pan and charcoal with an emerging waft of violets. The elegantly crafted, medium-bodied palate dances with red and black fruit before bursting into earth and mineral sparks. It has a sturdy frame of firm, grainy tannins and bags of freshness, finishing long and savory.

2016 Castellare di Castellina Sodi di San Niccolo (WA96+ at HK$550/bottle) – A Tuscany red with 85% Sangiovese and 15% Malvasia Nera, it shows enormous purity and focus, with specific aromas that remind you of a Mediterranean in character with rosemary and crushed lavender, followed by wild cherry, dried raspberry and cassis. The tannins are elegant and finely integrated, and the wine leaves nothing but long, polished sensations behind. This is one of the best vintages of the cuvee in 20 years. 

2022 Lismore Estate Cuvee Blanc Reserve (WA95 at HK$400/bottle) – From South Africa, this white is made from 90% Roussanne, 5% Viognier and 5% Chardonnay and giving a nose of clover, orange Julius and sage oil. Medium-bodied and with electric acidity, the palate offers a mouth-tingling phenolic bitterness before ending with a long, lively finish. This isn't your typical white Rhône blend, as it displays an elegant and lively action in the mouth with succulent, food-friendly acidity without any flabbiness. Only 2,400 bottles are produced.

2020 Vilafonte Series M (WA95+ at HK$520/bottle) – Our 2019 vintage of this good South African red sold out so quickly and we are now offering the next vintage which is just as strong. In case anybody forgets, this is a Syrah based red with layered aromas of generous juicy dark fruit, spicy oak essences and spiced plum skin waft out of the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied framed by firmly structured tannins with soft oak.  

2020 Vilafonte Series C (WA97 at HK$780/bottle) – This is the Cabernet Sauvignon based sibling of the same winery…firm, generously layered and tight, needing more time in the bottle to come around and find its stride. Full-bodied and complex, the palate reveals succulent flavours of blackberry jus and spiced plum compote with layers of brown baking spices and oak essence. Possessing a tight tannic grip, the mid-palate is rich and round yet still compact in its youth. The wine aged in French oak, 68% new, for 22 months before being bottled. It's a gorgeous wine that will no doubt age brilliantly. 

2016 Dana Cabernet Sauvignon Onda d'Oro (JS96 at HK$1,100/bottle) – A more valued proposition from this excellent Napa winery, this deep garnet-purple colour red struts out of the glass with flamboyant baked cherries, warm blackcurrants, spice cake and potpourri with hints of menthol, chocolate box and a waft of forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is vibrant, juicy and open for business with a plush frame and lively lift to the finish. 

Thank you for reading. Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.