Odd as it may sound, but it makes sense…

The great philosopher Socrates once said, “I know I know nothing”. Oscar Wilde’s view was that “life is too simple to be taken seriously”. If these seem paradoxical, what about the following we all use every so often:

Open Secret

Virtual reality

Civil War

Old news

Only choice

Small crowd

Oxymorons that make sense?

The other one came up when yours truly read this article about Patek Philippe: “Innovation is our tradition”. The case is made in the context that, at least for the elite watch company, it is the reconciliation of tradition and innovation that lies at the very heart of the company’s dual-faced approach of watchmaking. Had Patek Philippe bowed only to tradition, it might still be making pocket watches since its inception in 1839 or, too in thrall with innovation, it could have abandoned mechanical movements to worship the false prophet, the quartz-regulated battery-powered mechanism. Innovation is not just about aesthetics. Patek Philippe has since established an entire Advanced Research Division to work on new and more accurate movements, use of materials and anything that can demonstrably improve quality and reliability of their watches, with many of such innovations patented.

What about wine, and specifically Donum? We like to think of Donum as traditional and forward-thinking. The traditional aspect is in letting the land shine through the grapes which are distinct expressions of terroir. Natural yeasts are used. There is no additive. The forward-thinking part lies in the maintenance of the land in that more are put into the soil than being extracted. Donum has been practicing regenerative farming which encourages biodiversity in and around the vineyards. This includes brewing and applying compost tea, incorporating sheep, chickens and ducks for weed and pest management, producing and utilizing biochar, and beekeeping. Indeed, several vineyards of Donum have achieved organic certification by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) and are also regenerative certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA). When you drink Donum wines, you will enjoy their quality while at the same time knowing that they come with the environment enriched rather than deprived.

On that note, you will see below that we are introducing a new cuvee of Chardonnay by Donum. There are other newly added stocks, including a rare find from Greece and an Austrian red that we think you might find interesting.

2022 Donum Thomas Ferguson Vineyard Chardonnay (JS96 at HK$620/bottle) – This is a relatively new cuvee which started only in 2021. The vineyard has the characteristics of being much rockier, with large cobblestones and higher silica content soils. The 2022 TFV Chardonnay is medium gold in colour, with floral aromas, green apple and lemon. The palate continues with apple, with additional notes of starfruit, melon and lime. The finish is slightly spicy, with pronounced minerality.

2019 Hirsch Ried Gaisberg Gruner Vetliner (JS98 at HK$360/bottle) – This good value Austrian white is intense and aromatic and yet also fresh, revealing perfectly ripe white and yellow fruits. Rich and juicy on the palate, with crystalline acidity and elegant fruit, it is very complex, precise and a really excellent wine. The finish is finely tannic, juicy and with drive.

2022 Quintodecimo Greco di Tufo Gialo d'Arles (WA95 at HK$400/bottle) – From Campania of South Italy, this white will especially appeal to those who gravitate toward aromas and precision on the palate as the wine expresses itself with a nose of tart citrus fruit, green papaya and crushed oyster shell. There is volume and texture as it delivers hints of cinnamon and a little salty element towards its finish.

2023 Anhydrous Icon (WA96 at HK$600/bottle) – One of the best from Greece, this white is 100% Assyrtiko with fruit from 100-years old vines. The wine is fermented with wild yeasts and ages in concrete vats for nine months. The philosophy is to let the fruit express itself and to accept the character of the grape without intervention. The wine is like a sea wave as your mouth salivates because of the intense minerality. The texture is fleshy, creamy and it ends with lemon cream, peach and ample structure.

2016 Brane-Cantenac (WA96-98 at HK$550/bottle) – This Bordeaux red is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Carmenere. It has a beautifully defined, very detailed bouquet with mineral-rich black fruit laced with cedar and graphite notes. The palate is probably the best ever for wines from the estate. It has presence and intensity but also weightlessness. The tension is outstanding and the persistence incredibly long. Not the most showy and yet everything you could possibly want from a Margaux. This is a benchmark against which future vintages will be compared. And we haven’t even mentioned its great price!!!

2016 Figeac (VN98 at HK$1,600/bottle) – This Bordeaux estate has been promoted to the Primier Grand Cru Class (the highest) of St-Emilion in 2022. From a great vintage, the serious, beautifully poised and sophisticated 2016 has a nose that is a little reticent at this stage, slowly unfolding to reveal profound plum preserves, crème de cassis, black raspberries and star anise with hints of moss-covered bark, truffles plus a waft of red currants and raspberry. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is practically quivering with energy, offering glimpses of the tightly wound black fruit and mineral/ferrous layers, framed by very firm, ripe tannins and wonderful tension, finishing long with the spices coming through. This wine will continue to develop and should cellar for 40+ years.

2017 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch Alte Reben (WA95 at HK$780/bottle) – An Austrian red out of the grape varietal Blaufränkisch which is popular in Central Europe, one some call the Pinot of the East. It is deep, intense, fresh and floral on the concentrated and spicy nose that is dominated by dark berry, sour cherry and herbal aromas, with a subtle saline aroma that is typical for the Moric red wines from limestone soil. With time, elderflowers and dark cherry emerge along with notes of pure raw beef, iron, tea, redcurrant and floral notes from lavender and cress blossoms. It is fresh and silky on the palate, with fleshy, concentrated and chewy fruit and an enormous finish that reveals concentration as well as mineral freshness…a fascinating, pure and refreshing wine, one of the greatest in the history of Moric.

2019 Zorzal Punto de Fuga Corral del Mate (WA95+ at HK$550/bottle) – This is Garnacha (Grenache in Spanish) from a small plot at Navarra of Basque, north Spain and fermented in small vats. With finesse, purity and freshness, this medium-bodied red reveals very fine tannins and terrific balance, with imperceptible oak giving great complexity, finishing dry and with sensation. Only 660 bottles of this low-yielding vintage were filled.

2020 Casa Castillo El Molar (WA95 at HK$220/bottle) – Another Garnacha and this one from the south of Spain under more of the Mediterranean climate. The wine is tender and feels delicate despite its 15% alcohol level. It is super aromatic, extroverted and expressive, floral, elegant and complex. There is great balance, freshness, with a core of minerality and super fine tannins. Wines by this estate are typically good value, but this one in particular is a steal.

Thank you for reading. Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.