The Passing of a Generation?

People come people go. That is eternal truth but some are having much stronger presence than others. Faced with the reality of people passing away, there is also a sense of a generation transitioning to another now that yours truly is at a maturing age of life.

Yang Chen-Ning’s achievement in the science of physics is undoubted. On a completely different front, show business, Gene Hackman, Robert Redford and more recently Diane Keaton all passed away in 2025. They are iconic stars of our generation. So many of their movies have been our favourites. It is probably not an overstatement to say they brought more than entertainment to us. They also changed the way some of us look at movies and fashion, our personal style, even the philosophy in life.

Many have written on Diane Keaton in the last ten days. Not surprisingly, the most insightful piece is by Woody Allen who directed eight of her movies and they were lovers for some three years. Allen started by saying: “It’s grammatically incorrect to say MOST UNIQUE, but all rules of grammar, and I guess anything else, are suspended when talking about Diane Keaton….(she’s) unlike anyone the planet has experienced or is unlikely to ever see again, her face and laugh illuminated any space she entered”. He is biased, of course. But her role in Annie Hall, a somewhat awkward, nervous introvert at first, then evolving to become confident and independent, has left such an enduring impression. And who can forget her clothing style in the movie, one that was made up of items mostly from the men’s collection of Polo Ralph Lauren, but ensembled in a way that could best be described as “chaotic”? We all loved it nonetheless. Allen ended his essay making the point “The World is constantly being redefined, and with Keaton’s passing it is redefined once again. A few days ago, the world was a place that included Diane Keaton. Now it’s a drearier world.”   

Changing the subject and let’s move to the wine market which is ever evolving. Bordeaux hit its peak in the 2010-2012 time frame as prices soared to unrealistic levels. First Growths of the 2009 vintage would cost in the HK$8,000-10,000/bottle range!!! As the Chinese consumers became increasing knowledgeable and the rest of the world coming to their senses, Bordeaux prices have had a sharp correction and the same First Growth is now at 2/3 of that peak price. We then saw an eye-watering squeeze up of Burgundies as interests shifted, but ultimately not sustainable. The same can be said for top name Champagnes, with a sudden explosion of sales and consumption, leading to skyrocketing prices which again experienced marked pull-back in the last twelve months. Then it’s the turn for the Super Tuscans. A Solaia or Sassicaia, much like a Bordeaux blend in terms of composition, has more than doubled in price in the last couple of years and today is more expensive than most Second Growths. How long can that continue?

And that brings us back to Bordeaux, long the benchmark of the fine wine market. After enduring its toughest cycle in recent memory, many wines now actually look quite affordable. Indeed the balance seems to be changing, with quality, value, drinkability and investment potential all converging to create more compelling reasons to shift back to them. In terms of character, modern Bordeaux are fresher, purer, more balanced and can be enjoyed young or to be kept for aging developments. In that regard, we would not recommend you to go to En Primeur as we find the producers and negociants somewhat greedy in setting prices in the last few years. There are plenty of available stock in the market and we recommend in particular to look for ones from the vintages of 2005, 2012, 2015, 2016 and 2018.

Now turning to some of our new inventory which you may find interesting, with quite a few Bordeaux reds to consider:

2019 Chartogne-Taillet Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise (WA96 at HK$880/bottle) – One of the most important figures of the grower Champagne movement, owner Alexandre Chartogne learned his wine making skill from Jacques Selosse. He prioritizes soil health by avoiding herbicides and synthetic fertilizers, with a big portion of his vineyard plowed by horse. This very good Champagne reveals a bouquet of white blossoms, lemon zest and freshly baked brioche. The palate is medium-bodied, incisive and poised, with laser-like acidity that carries a core of pristine fruit to a long, mineral finish.

2017 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay (WA93-95 at HK$480/bottle) – This good valued Californian white is fresh and vibrant. Its nose displays aromas of honeycomb, yellow apple and orchard blossom. The palate is decadent but balanced, with refreshing and tangy acidity running through to the finish. After aeration, its honeyed richness comes to the foreground, and the influence of new oak becomes more apparent. It is good now but should also age beautifully. 

2000 Peby Faugeres (WA96 at HK$1,200/bottle) – This luxury Bordeaux cuvee is the real deal. Sadly, only 500 cases were made of this compelling St.-Emilion. An inky/blue/purple hue is accompanied by aromas of espresso roast, blueberry liqueur, smoke, and graphite. Thick and unctuously textured with impressive purity and depth as well as full-bodied power and richness, the wine is such an enjoyment, if you can find it in the market at all. 

2016 Grand Mayne (JS96 at HK$360/bottle) – One of our favourite good value Bordeaux red, the 2016 Grand Mayne is medium to deep garnet-purple coloured, featuring fragrant kirsch, redcurrant jelly and black plums scents with touches of garrigue, mossy bark and Sichuan pepper. Full-bodied, rich and densely laden with vibrant red and black fruits, it has a plush frame and very long, earth-laced finish.  

2018 Le Gay (WA95 at HK$560/bottle) – From Pomerol of Bordeaux, the 2018 Le Gay is deep garnet-purple in colour and has a beautifully perfumed nose of lavender essence, chocolate-covered cherries and preserved plums, leading to a fragrant undercurrent of kirsch, licorice and fertile loam. The concentrated, full-bodied palate (15% alcohol) delivers bold, black fruit flavours with compelling red berry sparks and a plush texture, finishing long with good freshness.

2018 Pavie Decesse (WA97+ at HK$800/bottle) – As more of its vineyard being shifted to the famed and high priced sibling Pavie, not only it shows the pedigree of this cuvee but at the same time there has been decreasing production, all the more reason to stock it in one’s cellar. The 2018 Pavie Decesse is a great wine, bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of stewed black and red cherries, plum pudding and blackberry preserves, leading to an undercurrent of spices, cardamom, camphor and star anise, plus a waft of woodsmoke. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is coated with black fruit preserves and exotic spices, supported by a firm, velvety texture and bags of freshness, finishing on a lingering menthol note. It is scrumptious right now, but will surely get to another level after spending 4-5 more years in bottle.

2018 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Cras (WA95 at HK$1,700/bottle) – This particular Burgundy cuvee may well prove to be the highpoint of a magical portfolio chez Barthod, and it will be worth a special effort to seek out. Unwinding in the glass with scents of dark berries, raspberries, exotic spices, sweet soil tones and peonies, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a textural attack that segues into a deep and layered mid-palate, underpinned by bright acids and ripe tannins, before concluding with a long, perfumed and exquisitely mineral finish.  

2010 Comte Abbatucci Ministre Imperial (WA97 at HK$400/bottle) – How many of us have experienced wines from Corsica? We suggest you wasting no time to try this mind-bending cuvee that is a blend of the Sciacarellu, Niellucciu, Carcajou-Neru, Montaneccia, Morescono, Morescola and Aleatico grape varietals (hey, I recognize that these are not common). With a few swirls, an eerily lovely evocation of herbal and effusively-flowering scrub soars from the glass accompanied by sweetly ripe cherry and strawberry. There is an alliance of textural creaminess with tea-like tannin, mint, tarragon, tonka nut, almond and a torrent of fresh strawberry, cherry, and blood orange, leading to a juicy, buoyant, interactive, saline, energetic and virtually endless finish. Count yourself lucky if you manage to grab a few of this 2,000-bottle cuvee.

2016 Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto (WA97 at HK$680/bottle) – This cuvee is from the estate's showpiece vineyard, not only because it is positioned in full view of incoming visitors but also because of its ideal southeast-facing exposures. This allows the vines to be awash in sunlight and Tuscan luminosity, resulting in a ripe and fruit-forward Brunello that never shies away in terms of richness or intensity. Indeed, the wine delivers a special level of power that transcends the bouquet and the palate, resulting in dark fruit, spice, leather, cured tobacco and rosemary essence. Only 8,000 bottles filled.

2012 L'Aventure Estate Cuvee (WA98 at HK$600/bottle) – From the Central Coast of California, this forward and open red is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot in 57/31/12 proportion. It’s an awesome wine that possesses thrilling purity in its creme de cassis, licorice, toast, chocolate, and roasted meat-like aromas and flavours. Full-bodied and seamlessly constructed, with perfect integration of its fruit, tannin and alcohol, this beauty is now in the excellent part of its drinking window.   

Thank you for reading. Please feel free to go to our website www.vinopolis.com.hk to browse the full wine list. Purchases can be made through the website or by sending us an e-mail or simply WhatsApp 9195-7383.